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Peru: Yánesha Women revitalise the culture and tradition of their community through textile art

Yánesha designers from the Oxapampa-Asháninka-Yánesha Biosphere Reserve (BIOAY) preserve the cultural and historical heritage of their community through textile art. The indigenous communities of BIOAY are part of the Amazon Biosphere Reserve Project, implemented by UNESCO and supported by LVMH.
Moda Amazónica Feconaya

The Federation of Native Yánesha Communities (FECONAYA,  by its acronym in Spanish) is the highest expression of Yánesha unity. It represents the 38 native communities located within the four Protected Natural Areas (PNAs) of the Oxapampa-Asháninka-Yánesha Biosphere Reserve (BIOAY, by its acronym in Spanish), in Pasco. This Reserve was recognised in 2010 by UNESCO and aims to conserve biodiversity, protect ecosystems, and preserve indigenous heritage.

For decades, the Yánesha people have vigorously defended their rich cultural and historical heritage, with textile art being one of their main activities, combining artistic expression and the strengthening of identity. Moreover, textile art is central to stories of empowerment and change for the women of the community, who share unique textile techniques passed down through generations.

A clear example is Cecilia Martínez Mesedas, a Yánesha engineer and part of FECONAYA's technical team. She leads a project that transforms agricultural practices and fashion design, integrating sustainability and respect for her people’s tradition, elevating fashion to an international level by combining cultural heritage with current trends.

Coordinadora de Feconaya - Cecilia

"For us, fabric dyeing has a profoundly rich and inspiring cultural and spiritual meaning," says Cecilia. She understands what each technique represents: a connection with the spirits of the forest and ancestors, as well as the preservation of identity and traditions. This is evident at every stage, from collecting plants to obtain natural pigments, preparing the dyes through boiling and crushing processes, to performing rituals and prayers during dyeing to honour and thank nature for providing the resources used.

It is important to highlight that the transmission of knowledge of these techniques occurs through practical, participatory learning from mothers to daughters, and also with young apprentices who work alongside their mentors, observing and participating in the entire dyeing process. As they gain experience, they acquire the skills and knowledge needed to become teachers themselves, continuing this circle of teaching.
 

Yánesha Fashion Projections

The "I Asháninka-Yánesha Fashion Design Contest 2023", held on 23 November 2023 by the Federation of Native Yánesha Communities (FECONAYA) and the Provincial Municipality of Oxapampa, featured the participation of UNESCO Peru as a judge. This contest recognises the growing influence of indigenous women in fashion and culture.

The event celebrated the fusion of creativity and ancestral wisdom, becoming a showcase of fashion as an expression of culture and female empowerment, showing the world the richness and innovation of the Yánesha communities. It fulfilled its purpose of highlighting and valuing the admirable work of the artisans.

This initiative not only emphasised the skill in using non-timber resources and promoting climate-resistant activities but also reinforced the commitment to sustainable fashion.

Some of the products showcased were the cushma, dyed with matico; the'noxrets made of guayruro, llama eye, and chihusqui; conch shells and wamprat, symbols of strength. All these designs captured the essence of nature, reflecting the authenticity of each creation.
 

Moda Amazónica Yanesha

Textile art and fashion have signified the evolution of the female role in FECONAYA. Yánesha women, who historically were focused solely on domestic roles, are now assuming leadership positions and making key decisions. Their influence has been crucial in revitalising ancestral textile practices, including the cultivation of native cotton and the use of traditional dyeing techniques, which keep alive the cultural legacy, the identity of the community, and ensure the transmission of knowledge to new generations.

However, this activity is not without its challenges. The decline of natural resources used in fabric dyeing, such as plants and bark, affects the practice's sustainability. The influence of modernity may lead to the adoption of methods and materials that replace traditional ones. In addition, there is a lack of interest among younger generations in learning ancestral practices. This situation puts the continuity of textile art at risk.

Therefore, for Yánesha artisans and designers, it is crucial to promote the appreciation of culture and traditions, encourage the transmission of knowledge between generations, and seek sustainable ways to obtain the necessary materials. Moreover, continuing to participate in promotion and marketing spaces will undoubtedly help generate greater interest and support for this wonderful practice.
 

About the Amazon Biosphere Reserves Project

The Amazon Biosphere Reserves Project develops an integrated landscape management model, combining scientific, local, and indigenous knowledge and supporting sustainable productive initiatives. It has also had a positive impact on governance and the participation of indigenous peoples, strengthening their leadership and representation.

In Peru, the project has been implemented since 2021 in the Oxapampa-Asháninka-Yánesha Biosphere Reserve (BIOAY) (Pasco) and in the Manu Biosphere Reserve (Cusco, Madre de Dios). The project is executed by UNESCO with funding from .

For more information: /en/amazon-biosphere-reserves-project